New BT380CC trigger problems

[DrBrown54]

I hate being that new guy who jumps online to ask questions about problems, but since I bought at a local gun show and the company I bought my 380cc from is over an hour drive I figured I'd start here.

Openned my box, read the manual to see what they say about break down and cleaning, operation etc. So I dry fired a little to get the feel of it, then took the slide off to inspect the inner parts and clean some of the goop off of it before I go shoot it. I put it back together and the trigger stopped springing back. So I took the right-side grip cover off to inspect the inner parts. Seemed like the springs were in the right locations and functioning. It's just weird. I tinkered around a but pressing and moving some of the trigger parts manually and it seemed like it freed up again and was okay but now the hammer is very hard to pull back manually and when pulling the double action it clicks twice like a ratchet. Here's a video I posted to get feedback. Let me know what you guys think if you have a minute:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKa3Z8Ekilg

[Jaxpolice]

I'm like you, I would not trust it until you have a good amount of ammo run through it... I have a Bersa 9mm , I have found that once the rough edges are smoothed out by breaking it in with 300 - 1000 rounds the gun works like a dream.... but after all the guns I have used for conceal carry, I find that I trust and love my G Lock 27 & 23... I would dive into that gun and polish all contact areas clean it real good and run some ammo in it, then see how it's working...

[DrBrown54]

After I made the video I tinkered some more and it was better. But once I manually racked the slide back and engaged the hammer the trigger completely stopped working lol. Almost like the safety was stuck on. And the clickity clack crap that happens when stacking the trigger gets worse. Me thinks it has serious problems. I'm taking it back to the dealer I got it from to have them disect it. I'll report back what we find. I just hate that I'd have to pay shipping back to Argentina for something that's never been fired and should have been tested before sending it out.

[mitchr]

After I made the video I tinkered some more and it was better. But once I manually racked the slide back and engaged the hammer the trigger completely stopped working lol. Almost like the safety was stuck on. And the clickity clack crap that happens when stacking the trigger gets worse. Me thinks it has serious problems. I'm taking it back to the dealer I got it from to have them disect it. I'll report back what we find. I just hate that I'd have to pay shipping back to Argentina for something that's never been fired and should have been tested before sending it out.

It doesn't go to Argentina. There are several warranty centers here in the states. Check Eagle Imports website for a listing. Before your dealer sends it off, be sure he knows where you want it serviced. If he sends it back to his distributor, it'll just delay it's return.

[Americangirl01]

Welcome, DrBrown54. If the right grip panel is too tight, it can cause problems with the trigger mechanism. You may have inadvertently repaired it by simply removing and reinstalling the grip panel. If the problem recurs and you determine that it is something other than the grip panel tightness, your pistol comes with a lifetime service contract and you can send it to the warranty center of your choice for inspection and repair. As posted by mitchr, there are several warranty service centers in the US. The list can be found at www.bersa.com and clicking the warranty tab at the top of the page.

[DrBrown54]

Maybe someone could answer this for me... if you stage your 380 trigger slightly it will set the hammer back off the firing pin (mine clicks audibly), and pull about 1/8" more and it clicks again, then it's a hard pull to the back where it fires. My trigger is clicking louder the more I use it. I just wondered if the 2 early clicks were normal so I can verify something else isn't "off" inside the gun.

I made the trip back to the seller's shop today. I had it so botched I couldn't even get the slide back on. Which we think was because the trigger bar was being pushed out in the way of the slide. It may have been grip related, not sure. We messed with the gun for about 10 minutes and compared it to another new one off the shelf and we at least got it firing again. But what bothers me is knowing this could happen if I were carrying it. I plan to take it to the range this week and put 100-200 rounds through it to see if I can get the trigger to malfunction. I doubt it will get better after some break in, but maybe it will! Thanks for the replies. I'll keep this thread updated as I find out more. I've read up on Eagle and they have good reviews so I'll likely go that route if it this pistol needs fixed.

[Americangirl01]

Maybe someone could answer this for me... if you stage your 380 trigger slightly it will set the hammer back off the firing pin (mine clicks audibly), and pull about 1/8" more and it clicks again, then it's a hard pull to the back where it fires. My trigger is clicking louder the more I use it. I just wondered if the 2 early clicks were normal so I can verify something else isn't "off" inside the gun.

I made the trip back to the seller's shop today. I had it so botched I couldn't even get the slide back on. Which we think was because the trigger bar was being pushed out in the way of the slide. It may have been grip related, not sure. We messed with the gun for about 10 minutes and compared it to another new one off the shelf and we at least got it firing again. But what bothers me is knowing this could happen if I were carrying it. I plan to take it to the range this week and put 100-200 rounds through it to see if I can get the trigger to malfunction. I doubt it will get better after some break in, but maybe it will! Thanks for the replies. I'll keep this thread updated as I find out more. I've read up on Eagle and they have good reviews so I'll likely go that route if it this pistol needs fixed.

Good afternoon. The clicks are normal. All of my Thunder .380s do the same thing. My understanding is that it was used in pre-firing pin block models to prevent the hammer from resting on a live round.

As a for what it's worth, one should never squeeze/pull the trigger of the Thunder .380 with the right grip panel removed. Doing so can cause the drawbar to turn sideways. The slide generally won't go back on with the drawbar turned incorrectly. If you continue to have issues with the trigger linkage and are not causing the issue by working the trigger with the grip panel removed or by overtightening the grip panel screw, your pistol comes with a lifetime service contract and I believe that I would take advantage of it and send the pistol to one of the authorized service centers and have the issue corrected. Best of luck to you and I do hope the matter is resolved.

[michael t]

You don't dry fire a bersa with the grips off You asking for trouble Grips help keep thing inproper alinement.

[ColoradoGunWorksGunsmith]

Please let us know how this comes out. We would be happy to get it working correctly for you under the warranty. Please let us know what you decide to do.
Thanks,